Photo of the Week


Left to right: Eiffel Tower, Louvre Pyramid, Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and Ferris Wheel. © Paris Update


Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Drawing through the ages

"Apples" (1944), by Henri Matisse. Eric Coatalem Gallery.

> Salon du Dessin: 39 galleries showing works on paper, from Old Masters to contemporary. Palais Brogniart, Paris, March 22-27.

Contemporary drawing fair
> Drawing Now: 73 galleries, Carreau du Temple, Paris, March 23-26.

More contemporary drawings
>Ddessin: 20 galleries. Atelier Richelieu, Paris, March 24-26.

Art and design fair
> PAD (Paris Art + Design),
67 galleries, Tuileries Garden, Paris, March 22-26.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, March 23-May 28.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Audrey Dana's Si j'Étais un Homme, preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, Feb. 24.

Documentary film festival
> Cinéma du Réel showcases documentaries from around the world. Various venues, Paris, March 24-April 2.

Suburban blues
> The Banlieues Bleues festival brings major French and international jazz acts to the Paris suburbs. Various venues, through March 31.

Before and after ecological disaster
> The Chic Planète festival presents two types of films, those celebrating the bounty of the earth and science-fiction views of what will happen after an ecopalypse. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 13.




Art - Museums


Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine 2

Monumental Success

The Galerie Davioud, with casts of sculptures from the Cathedral of Strasbourg (13th century), the Cathedral of Saint-Étienne de Bourges (late 13th century), and the Cathedral of Reims. © Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine/Carole Lenfant
The Galerie Davioud, with casts of sculptures from the Cathedral of Strasbourg (13th century), the Cathedral of Saint-Étienne de Bourges (late 13th century), and the Cathedral of Reims. © Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine/Carole Lenfant

Just outside the tall windows of the splendid new Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine stands one of France’s most famous monuments, the Eiffel Tower, while inside visitors inspect detailed casts and scale models of many of the country’s other – some of them less well-known – monuments.

With the reopening of the Musée des Monuments Français, a quirky institution exhibiting casts, copies and scale models of France’s architectural gems, the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, which takes up one wing of the Palais de Chaillot at Trocadéro, is now complete. The section housing the Institut Français de l’Architecture, with its intelligently curated exhibitions on contemporary architecture, opened last March, and the Cité is also home to the Ecole de Chaillot restoration school.

What, you might ask, is the interest of looking at copies of architectural elements, sculpture, frescoes and stained glass from French churches and châteaux in a Paris museum? Plenty. First, many of the original structures have been destroyed, damaged or restored since the copies were made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Second, it is much easier to closely study the intricate details of the works of art copied from French churches and cathedrals – with their marvelous depictions of saints and sinners, demons and angels, animals and mythical creatures – in the museum than at the actual monuments, where most are located at neck-craning heights. You can admire, for example, the brilliant composition of piled-up bodies on a trumeau from Souillac, for example, or the nasty grins on the faces of the “Vierges Folles” (Mad Virgins) from the Cathedral of Strasbourg. Third, seeing the copies of these masterpieces will certainly inspire people to visit the real thing and enhance the experience when they do.

These massive pieces are magnificently displayed in the vast, light-filled, high-ceiled spaces of the newly renovated wing of the Palais Chaillot. Room after room is filled with tympanums, portals, columns, individual sculptures and scale models. Many return visits are required to do justice to these pieces, which are given context and background information through photos, maps and short descriptions (translated into English and Spanish), as well as informative and interesting interactive videos (showing, for example, what a statue might have looked like when painted in its original gaudy colors). For those who want to delve deeper, the Cité’s archives (by appointment only) and library are open to the public.

Another gallery presents a broad overview of modern and contemporary architecture through visitor-friendly models and even a reconstruction of a real apartment designed by Le Corbusier for the Cité Radieuse in Marseille in 1952, with its built-in furniture and cupboards, which visitors are free to wander through.

Bravo to the people behind this highly successful venture in making architecture, both old and new, accessible and interesting to the public.

Reader Paul Twohig writes: "Thanks for the update. We’ve been waiting for years for this museum to reopen, and earlier updates from other sources were confusing. For one thing, we got the idea the museum would be relocated. You effectively made the case for why people would want to see casts of architectural sections and other reproductions. This will be a priority on our next trip."

Heidi Ellison

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine: Palais de Chaillot, 1, place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75016 Paris. Métro: Trocadéro. Tel.: 01 58 51 52 00. Open Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Closed Tuesday. Closed Tuesday and January 1. Admission: €7 for permanent exhibitions.

© 2007 Paris Update

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