Photo of the Week

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Bicycles in a Parisian courtyard. © Paris Update

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Paris Update What’s On

Links to events happening this week in Paris.

Stick up for science
> The Paris March for Science begins at 1pm at the Jardin des Plantes (Place Valhubert), April 22.

Silent films from Switzerland?
> They’re rare, but they do exist and can be seen at the Fondation Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé, Paris, April 20-May 2.

Voices from the North
> The Pølar Festival celebrates Northern European culture with films, concerts, talks and more. Various locations, Paris, April 19-29.

Photo walk
> Eight Paris galleries hold special photography shows and events for Parcours Fotofever. Various locations, Paris, through May 1.

Photo shows galore
> Le Mois de la Photo has been moved from autumn to spring, with 96 exhibitions taking place all over the greater Paris area. See Web site for locations and dates.

Art videos
> The theme of this year’s Videobox Festival is “noise and movement.” Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 27-29.

Take home a winemaker
> Winemakers from Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux come to Paris to offer tastings of their products in wine bars and private homes for the event J’Irai Déguster chez Vous. Various venues, Paris, April 20-22.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Nicolas Bedos’s Monsieur & Madame Adelman preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, April 21.

Polaroid pix
> The “Expolaroid” exhibition features Polaroid images by nine artists. La Maison des Ensembles, Paris, through April 25.

Binge-watching
> Festival Séries Mania shows TV series from around the world and holds debates, conferences and special guests like Julianna Margulies of “The Good Wife,” all for free. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 23.

Travel yarns
> Travel fanatics get together at the Paris Travelers Festival to swap tales of their adventures. FIAP, Paris, April 22-23.

Street art indoors

ParisUpdate-UrbanArtFair-Felipe-Pantone-2
The gallery Art in the Game will be showing works by Felipe Pantone at the Urban Art Fair.> Some 30 galleries show street art at the Urban Art Fair. Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 20-23.

Virtual reality
> Drop in on Saturday or Sunday from 2pm to 8pm for a free virtual trip at the VR Express festival. Forum des Images, Paris, through June 30.

Dance in historic sites
> Monuments en Mouvement offers free dance performances in national monuments like the Pantheon in Paris, the Abbaye de Cluny and châteaux. Various locations, through Oct. 21.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, through May 28.

Before and after ecological disaster
> The Chic Planète festival presents two types of films, those celebrating the bounty of the earth and science-fiction views of what will happen after an ecopalypse. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 13.

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Art - Museums

 

Musée du Quai Branly

New Parisian

Monument Opens

The Rue de l’Université side of the museum and garden. © Musée du Quai Branly. Photo: Nicolas Borel
The Rue de l’Université side of the museum and garden. © Musée du Quai Branly. Photo: Nicolas Borel

One hates to agree with Jacques Chirac about anything, but for once the French president seems to have made the right call when he insisted that France’s exceptional collection of non-Western art be given increased prominence and a new home worthy of its standing in the heart of Paris. As of June 23, this collection can be seen in the brand-new Musée du Quai Branly, designed by Jean Nouvel and located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower.

The results are spectacular. Visitors approach the collection via a sensuously swooping white ramp (a “rite of passage” in architect-speak) and then pass through a dark tunnel before reaching the display area, where they are greeted by a stunning Dogon wood statue (dating from the 10th- or 11th-century) with both male and female characteristics and its one remaining arm reaching toward the sky.

The rest of the collection more than lives up to this highly promising beginning. France’s wealth of magnificent pieces from various cultures of Oceania, Africa, Asia and the Americas – formerly hidden away in the still-existing Musée de l’Homme and the Musée des Arts Africains et Oceaniens (the latter in a splendid Art Deco building on the outer edge of the city, which will be turned into a museum devoted to immigration) – can now receive the admiration they deserve. One jaw-dropping piece follows another as visitors wander through the different collections, all housed on the same floor, separated by partitions and linked by a central “river,” a wide path that meanders through the center, set apart by low, amorphously shaped, mud-colored walls.

Although Nouvel’s sprawling building has nothing Parisian about it (neither did the Eiffel Tower when it was built), it is a triumph. A few of his favorite touches are immediately recognizable – a “second skin” in the form of a freestanding glass wall along the pavement on the Seine side and light-filtering panels on the Rue de l’Université side (the museum has entrances on both sides). But Nouvel has carefully considered the content and function of the building, using a palette of earth tones and mostly avoiding the use of straight lines (the floor of the “river,” for example, has an uneven surface, as if it were a dirt path). The exceptions are what from the outside look like boxes of different sizes, shapes and colors stuck on the outside of the building on the Quai du Branly side, which turn out to be small side exhibition rooms.

The curators also deserve much credit for the brilliant display and lighting of the pieces, although the labels accompanying the works are, as in most French museums, often extremely difficult to read (when will someone invent a system of that is easily legible without detracting from the art?).

High-tech elements like videos and interactive computer screens are discreetly and intelligently integrated into this setting, providing complementary information about the cultures the works come from.

Three irregularly shaped, red-painted mezzanines above the main floor are used for temporary exhibitions and a mediathèque, where all the various videos and computerized information are centralized.

Outside, the large garden designed by superstar landscape architect Gilles Clément undulates gently underneath the building, which is raised above the ground on pillars Le Corbusier-style. An installation of light elements in plastic poles planted in the ground lights up the underside of the building at night, and a vertical garden covers one wall on the Seine side of the building.

One of Chirac’s motivations for encouraging the creation of this museum was to ensure that he will leave a tangible heritage behind him, albeit a much less extensive one than his predecessor and rival in posterity, François Mitterrand, whose Grands Projets included the Louvre pyramid, the new national library, the Grande Arche de la Défense and the Opéra Bastille. Chirac has even admitted that he would be pleased if the museum was one day renamed after him. Thanks for the museum, Jacques, but no thanks.

Heidi Ellison

Musée du Quai Branly: 37, quai Branly, 75007 Paris. Métro: Iéna, Alma-Marceau or Bir Hakeim. RER Pont de l’Alma. Tel.: 01 56 61 70 00. Open Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Admission: €8.50. www.quaibranly.fr/

© 2006 Paris Update

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