Photo of the Week


Left to right: Eiffel Tower, Louvre Pyramid, Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and Ferris Wheel. © Paris Update


Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Drawing through the ages

"Apples" (1944), by Henri Matisse. Eric Coatalem Gallery.

> Salon du Dessin: 39 galleries showing works on paper, from Old Masters to contemporary. Palais Brogniart, Paris, March 22-27.

Contemporary drawing fair
> Drawing Now: 73 galleries, Carreau du Temple, Paris, March 23-26.

More contemporary drawings
>Ddessin: 20 galleries. Atelier Richelieu, Paris, March 24-26.

Art and design fair
> PAD (Paris Art + Design),
67 galleries, Tuileries Garden, Paris, March 22-26.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, March 23-May 28.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Audrey Dana's Si j'Étais un Homme, preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, Feb. 24.

Documentary film festival
> Cinéma du Réel showcases documentaries from around the world. Various venues, Paris, March 24-April 2.

Suburban blues
> The Banlieues Bleues festival brings major French and international jazz acts to the Paris suburbs. Various venues, through March 31.

Before and after ecological disaster
> The Chic Planète festival presents two types of films, those celebrating the bounty of the earth and science-fiction views of what will happen after an ecopalypse. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 13.




Art - Museums


Musée de l’Orangerie

Sistine Chapel of

Impressionism Reopens

Monet's water lilies have been brought back into the light. Photo: © Didier Plowy MCC
Monet's water lilies have been brought back into the light. Photo: © Didier Plowy MCC

Monet water-lily lovers will be thrilled to hear that the Musée de l’Orangerie has finally reopened today after six years of renovation work that cost the state €30 million. They will be even more thrilled to see that the panoramic series of paintings Monet donated to this museum have been brought back into the light of day, as he had intended them to be.

The facade of the rectangular building known as the “Sistine Chapel of Impressionism,” located on the Seine side of the Tuileries Garden (and the near-twin of the Jeu de Paume on the north side), has been left intact, but the museum now has a new interior.

At first glance, the result looks depressingly familiar: The entrance hall, while filled with light from floor-to-ceiling windows and a glass roof, is all blocks of gray concrete. Step into the next room, however, and you find yourself in a smallish, unadorned oval-shaped white room with a small oval skylight. Its peaceful atmosphere changes the mood entirely and prepares you for the spectacular effect of the transition to the next room, a much larger oval-shaped space with its own oval skylight, letting in gently filtered light. Visitors can sit on the (also oval-shaped) bench in the center of the room and contemplate four of Monet’s aquatic masterpieces with nothing else to distract their attention. The next room, with four more monumental Monet paintings, is a slightly larger copy of the first.

Since the 1960s, these rooms, which had been built to Monet’s specifications, had been buried under a concrete ceiling added by a misguided architect. Olivier Brochet, the architect responsible for the current renovation, has restored their beautiful, light-bathed setting. The only problem is that the formerly little-visited Orangerie is now sure to attract crowds, making quiet contemplation of the famous water lilies much more difficult than it used to be.

The various renovations the building has undergone since it was built in the 19th century can be seen in four models on the mezzanine as you descend to the lower floor, where, in another surprising juxtaposition, paintings in ornate gilded frames are hung on the polished gray concrete wall of a long corridor. The Jean Walter/Paul Guillaume collection is presented in a series of smaller rooms, with an impressive array of works by Renoir, Rousseau, Cézanne, Monet, Sisley, Derain, Modigliani, Laurencin, Utrillo and Soutine.

Part of a wall dating from 1566, built during the reign of Charles IX, can also be seen in the basement. These archaeological vestiges were uncovered during the construction work, although some critics say their existence was no secret to those familiar with historical maps of the area. Their discovery seriously delayed the museum’s reopening, which had originally been planned for 2001.

The Musée de l’Orangerie also holds temporary exhibitions.

Heidi Ellison

Musée de l’Orangerie: Jardin des Tuileries, 75001 Paris. Métro: Concorde. Tel.: 01 44 77 80 07. Open Wednesday-Monday, 9am-6pm. Admission: €7.50.

© 2006 Paris Update

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