Photo of the Week


The upside-down innards of the Conciergerie shown on a tarp on the facade and reflected in the Seine. © Paris Update


Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Monster contemporary art fair
> FIAC: 189 galleries show their wares in the Grand Palais and Petit Palais, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Art on the Champs
> Art Élysées: 75 modern and contemporary art and design galleries in tents on the world's most famous boulevard. Champs Elysées, Paris, Oct. 20-24.

Asian art
> Asia Now: 30 contemporary galleries showing work by Asian artists. 9, av. Hoche, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Art brut
> Another kind of art at the Outsider Art Fair. Hotel du Duc, Paris, Oct. 22–25.

Art in a townhouse
> Paris Internationale: contemporary art fair in a Parisian townhouse. 51, avenue d'Iéna, Paris, Oct. 19-23.

Young international artists
> YIA Art Fair: Youth takes precedence at this art fair. Carreau du Temple, Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Digital art
> Variation: Contemporary digital art fair. Cité Internationale des Arts, Paris, Oct. 18-23.

“Music for old people”
> Le Classique C'est pour les Vieux: The ironically titled music festival holds classical concerts in skateparks, cafés, artists' studios and other unusual venues and incorporates street art, 3D performances and more. Paris, Oct. 20-23.

Film festival for kiddies
> Mon 1er Festival: some 400 screenings, premiers and more for kids aged two and up. Various locations, Paris, Oct. 19-25.


For Brassens fans
> The annual 22V'laGeorges Festival celebrates what would have been the great singer’s 95th birthday this year in his hometown of Sète. Oct. 22-29.

Refugee children speak through art


> From Syria with Love, an exhibition of drawings by Syrian refugee children. Galerie CInq, 5 rue du Cloitre St Merri, 75004 Paris, through Oct. 21.

Classic Danish films
> Festival of movies by Carl Theodor Dreyer. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Nov. 6.

Jazz galore
> Paris's leading jazz clubs cooperate for the festival Jazz sur Seine, with special prices for concerts, showcases and master classes. Various locations, Paris, through Oct. 22.

Cultures of the world onstage
> Music, dance, theater and ritual performances from around the world at the Festival de l'Imaginaire. Various locations, Paris, through Dec. 20.

Strange Happenings in St. Germain
> The exhibition Bizarro, with works by a number of artists, fills seven Left Bank galleries with “Bêtes de Scènes et Sacrés Monstres.” Don’t miss the Meta-perceptual Helmets by the Irish duo Cleary/Connolly
at the Librairie Alain Brieux, which allow the viewer to see forward and backward, for example, or the way a cyclops or horse would see. Various locations, Paris, through Oct. 30.

Contemporary arts festival
> The Festival d’Automne presents leading talents in art, dance, film, theater and more from around the world. Various venues, Paris, through Dec. 31.

Amazing gardens
> The popular Festival International des Jardins de Chaumont-sur-Loireis held annually in the park of the Château de Chaumont in Chaumont-sur-Loire, through Nov. 2.

Music & more in park bandstands
> Kiosques en Fête brings life to the bandstands in Paris’s parks with concerts, writing workshops, club meetings and even a square dance. Various locations, Paris, through Dec. 31.


Hot Topics - C'est ironique !


Paris Shop Signs: From the Ridiculous to the Sublimely Ridiculous, Part Four

It Doesn’t Mean
What You Think. I Hope.

Paris Update Shop Signs Wine Sitting

At last, a place where people who enjoy sitting on long-necked glass bottles can get together and... Oh wait, maybe not.

As I write this, France’s future hangs in the balance. With election day approaching, the two presidential candidates are locked in a close battle whose outcome will determine the course of crucial political, social and economic developments in the country, the European Union and the world.

So this is the perfect time to look at yet another batch of inadvertently funny shop signs. Let’s start beyond the Périphérique...

On a recent trip to the Basque region on France’s southern Atlantic coast, Nancy and I stayed in the beautiful port town of Ciboure, which is right next to the beautiful port town of Saint Jean de Luz. (They have a surplus of both water and beauty down there.)

Historically, Saint Jean de Luz is best known for being the place where Louis XIV was married to Maria-Theresa of Austria, who was, as her name so unequivocally indicates, the Infanta of Spain. That’s odd enough, but the lasting influence of that event has spawned some oddly anachronistic business names:

Paris Update Shop Signs Librairie-Louis-XIV

Paris Update Shop Signs Pharmacie Louis XIV

From Sagecul’s History of France: “The day before his wedding, the young king went to the bookshop to get a copy of La Joie du Sexe, but didn’t have the nerve to take it to the cash register, so he just peeked at the illustrations until the clerk yelled at him to either buy something or get out. Then he went to the drugstore, where the pharmacist refused to fill his Viagra prescription without seeing a drover’s license or an oil portrait ID, so he bought two boxes of ribbed condoms and headed over to the Louis VII-XI convenience store for a six pack of Taureau Rouge.”

We also spent a day in San Sebastian, Spain, where last year I stuffed myself silly with tapas, and where this year I learned something important. Everyone who has ever said, “This is the place,” was wrong — this is the place:

Paris Update Shop Signs The Place

We were getting from place to place by train and bus, so I was unable to photograph all of the ill-advised signs that I saw. However, somewhere down there in the villages between Biarritz and Bilbao there is a sports shop called Foot & Balls (men wince as they walk by), a waxing salon called Epil Story (it’s a ripping tale), a hair salon called Hair Mama (next door to Hair Mia) and a restaurant called The Restaurant. I have to admit that it sounds more tempting than “A Restaurant.” Not much, though.

No doubt they get their supplies from this imaginatively named business on Rue Montmartre in Paris (“S.A.” is the French equivalent of “Inc.”):

Paris Update Shop Signs Foods SA

Sticking with nutrition but getting back to Basque country, my favorite find was this café whose sign I spotted on the road to Bayonne:

Paris Update Shop Signs Bullimic-Cafe

It's hard to read here, but it really does say "Bullimic Café."Sorry for the quality — I had to take a fast shot from a moving bus.

Since I couldn’t quite believe my eyes, I looked the place up on the Web later and found out that the name actually makes sense. Kind of: it’s not exactly a café, it’s a teahouse and adult comics shop.

Adult comics are more popular in France than the puerile kind, an unfortunate phenomenon that may well provide the topic for a future C’est Ironique. So it’s logical for a comics shop to have a tea salon, much like the combination bookstore-coffeehouses in the United States. And it so happens that the French word for “speech balloon” is bulle. Hence “Bullimic” with two l’s.

I suppose the name is also intended to imply that the café’s graphics-hungry patrons are “bulimic” for comics, “gorging themselves” on story after story, album after album, and then... And then the metaphor breaks down. I hope.

Just down the road from the Ink ’n’ Drink there, I also got a poor-quality bus window photo of this hotel:

Paris Update Shop Signs Premiere Classe Hotel

Yessir, if you want your genuine first class, top-drawer quality you’ve got to pay for it. That’s right, thirty-eight euros — per night, not per week. Keeps the riffraff out.

But if it’s hyperbole in hotel names that you want, you have to come to Paris. Specifically, you have to come to this hotel on Rue Rodier:

Paris Update Shop Signs Perfect-hotel

Really, “perfect”? Every single thing about this hotel — decor, furnishings, linens, lighting, service, etc., etc. — is absolutely, totally, unimpeachably flawless, immaculate, impeccable and irreproachable?

If so, I have an ex-girlfriend who needs to stay in — in fact, live in — a place like that. And the only café she would ever need is just a couple of blocks away on Rue du Delta (photo from Google Maps):

Paris Update Shop Signs Ideal-Bar

I tend to doubt that it’s truly “ideal” (for one thing, I hear they stir the martinis), but I’m pretty sure I’d rather hang out there than at the club in this building near the Bastille:

Paris Update Shop Signs Club Ave Maria

It’s on Rue de l’Ave Maria. That explains the name. But seriously, how much fun can you have at the Hail Mary Club? And what’s the dress code? Cassocks and choir robes?

Speaking of which, what is it about clothing that inspires so many ludicrous logos? A third of the entries in my previous selection were from the garment industry, and my gracious reader Katie Anders graciously sent me the final three entries in this week’s roundup, starting with this shop at Châtelet:

Paris Update Shop Signs Boys Mens

I take this to mean that this place sells men’s clothing for boys. Big boys, presumably. Boys as big as any two normal boys, which is why they deserve a double plural.

The fashion oxymorons are flying at this store on Boulevard Sebastopol as well:

Paris Update Shop Signs Used Jeans

Two problems here. First, “Used” is a registered trademark? What other evocative brand names do you have in your portfolio? “Stained”? “Ripped”? “Threadbare”? “Peed-in”? And secondly, despite being used, and God knows what else, these jeans are “luxurious”? If you say so...

But let’s remember, luxury isn’t the most important thing in life. No, the most important thing in life is to eat at least two servings of fruit every day. And to have fun. As we are reminded by this shop on Boulevard Voltaire:

Paris Update Shop Signs Fun Kiwi II

OK, so there’s a kiwi fruit. So far so good.

Now, how would you describe it? Is it ripe, plump, juicy? Any adjective that one would normally associate with fruit? Green, fuzzy? Squashed, rotten?

Wrong. It’s none of those things — it’s fun. That’s one hell of an unusual kiwi. Obviously the only one in the world that could be described as... but wait — it can’t be all that unusual, because there are at least two of them.

By the time I get enough photos for Part Five of this recurring feature, I hope to have located Fun Kiwi III and IV. And eventually the Pharmacie Fun Kiwi XIV.

Seen a ridiculous sign in Paris? Send a photo to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .

For more Paris shop sign follies, see From the Ridiculous to the Sublimely Ridiculous Part One, Part Two and Part Three.

David Jaggard

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Reader Annette Cartozian graciously sent a photo of a souvenir shop on Rue du Cloître Notre Dame whose awning proclaims "Free entrance" (in English). Her comment: "Free entrance at a souvenir shop... really??!!"

David Jaggard replies: "Thank you for the note, and well spotted. As absurd as it is, there's actually a logical explanation for 'free entrance,' which I elucidated in an Ironique last year."

Reader Reaction: Click This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to respond to this article (your response may be published on this page and is subject to editing).

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