Photo of the Week

Paris-Update-EiffelTower

The Eiffel Tower seen from a rooftop in Montparnasse on a smoggy day. © Paris Update

 

Paris Update This Week’s Events

For full details about an event, click on the title to visit the official Web site (in English when available).

Women’s March on Paris
> The day after Donald Trump’s inauguration, women will march in cities around the world. Starts at the Parvis des Droits Humains, Trocadero, at 2pm, crosses the Pont d’Iéna and ends at the Mur pour la Paix at 4:30pm.

Behind closed doors
> Book now to visit places in Paris that are normally closed during Paris Face Cachée, including a lab trying to find cures for genetic diseases, located in a glass building with a panoramic roof terrace. Various venues, Paris and suburbs, Jan. 27-29.

Book signing
> Irish author Donal Ryan signs copies of his latest book, The Thing About December. Irish Cultural Center, Paris, Jan. 19.

Late-Night Magritte
> The Magritte exhibition at the Centre Pompidou will stay open until 10pm from Jan. 19 through the last day, Jan. 23.

Drinkathon
> Paris Cocktail Week offers master classes, special restaurant menus with cocktail/food pairings and other festivities. Various venues, Paris, Jan. 21-28.

Young European photographers
> The Festival Circulation(s) features emerging photographers. Centquatre, Paris, Jan. 21-March 5.

Picasso at the airport
> The exhibition "Picasso Plein Soleil" presents works made by the master while living on the Côte d’Azur. Espace Musées, Charles-de-Gaulle Airport 2E, Jan. 21-June 15.

Cheap cinema
> During the Festival Cinéma Télérama, you can see a selection of last year’s best films for only €3.50 each with the purchase of Télérama magazine (Jan. 11 and 18 issues). Various cinemas, Jan. 18-24.

Free subtitled French films
> My French Film Festival offers frees streaming of French movies. Through Feb. 13.

Frank Capra Retrospective
> The great American director in the spotlight. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 27.

Sex, Lies and Corruption
> The Hollywood Décadent festival features such films as Joseph Mankiewicz’s Cleopatra with Elizabeth Taylor, Valley of the Dolls, and Vincente Minnelli’s Nina. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Jan. 25.

Chinese New Wave
> Nouvelles Voix du Cinéma Chinois screens films by a new generation of directors beginning around the turn of the 21st-century. Cinémathèque Française, Paris, through Feb. 20.

Winter sales
> Retail sales all over France: through Feb. 21.

Ice-Skating Rinks
> Where to ice skate in Paris, including the Eiffel Tower and the Grand Palais.

English plays in French
> Two plays by Harold Pinter, Ashes to Ashes and L’Amant, directed by Mitch Hooper, are onstage at the Essaïon through Jan. 24, 2017.

 

Restaurants - Bistro

 

Le Bistrot des Faubourgs

Far from the Fadding Crowd
With its high-quality ingredients and homey dishes, Le Bistrot des Faubourgs is sure to become a neighborhood favorite.

Among my acquaintances are a number of artists: a painter or two, a sculptor, a brace of photographers, and a maker of experimental films whose choreographic camera creates a world of shard-like images. Artistically challenged myself, I often wonder how they can work in the long shadow cast by Pablo P. Where do they get the sheer nerve to take on Big Art?

The same goes for cooks. What do you do if you’re not a Bocuse or a Robuchon? A cook who will never recline alongside the gods on the towering heights of culinary Olympia? Presumably, you leave worries like that to people like me and get on with it.

These thoughts crossed my mind as I booked a table at the Bistrot des Faubourgs, which was opened in January by Emmanuelle Gaspard, erstwhile yogurtista at Danone. She runs the dining room, while Irish chef Carolyn Buckley handles the kitchen. Their debut venture – in a pleasant, smallish space with white walls, 1930s-ish wooden tables, a little wooden bar and red styling cues – is located within spitting distance of the trendy Canal Saint Martin area, and I wish them every success. Gaspard’s warm, friendly welcome gets things off to a good start.

The restaurant’s food has a certain pragmatism, with nothing fancy on the menu, no show-off pièces de résistance. Much of it is the sort of food you could make at home if you put your mind to it, had the time and knew where to source the same high-quality ingredients. You will not be blown away by the originality of the cuisine, which aims to concentrate on seasonal ingredients, and it’s not the kind of place you’d take someone you want to impress, but it’s perfect for a leisurely, comfortable, reasonably priced meal with old friends or ex-lovers, where the talk is the thing, and the pleasant, unpretentious food doesn’t upstage the gossip.

I began with a terrine of oxtail and leeks, in which the pressed beef ticked all the right flavor and texture boxes – the leeks had retained their green, salty flavor and sang a pleasant counterpoint to the mellow beefy flavors. This was garnished, like everything else I ate that evening, with lambs’ lettuce – one of two things that irritated me. A chef should have some idea of who’s ordering what and steer clear of using the same garnish on each plate. Or the customer should be warned when ordering that the garnish is the same and offered an alternative.

My companion had no such problem; she was delighted with her comforting starter of poached eggs in a rich, creamy cep sauce.

It was surf and turf for the main course: she had surf – a grilled fillet of the ubiquitous sea bream with mashed potatoes – and I had more beef. Both were judged to be good. But I had been spoiled earlier in the week at the Café des Musées by one of the tastiest, tenderest and best-cooked steaks it has ever been my good fortune to eat, so Ms. Buckley was up against some stiff competition. The fish was a tad overcooked and the mashed potatoes not up to my friend’s high standards, but I found myself wanting more of them.

At dessert time I went for a generous quarter of well-ripened camembert that was all a camembert should be, except that it arrived on the table quite a few degrees below room temperature – the second minor complaint of the evening. My companion chose the apple crumble, a fine version of this homey dessert. The wine was a fruity Corbières with a rakish spring in its step, very more-ish.

Le Bistrot des Faubourgs is the kind of place locals will adopt as their canteen. You won’t find people who have jetted thousands of miles for the privilege of eating here – just folk who’ve walked a few blocks at most – but that’s part of the joy of sharing food with friends in a congenial atmosphere.

Richard Hesse

Le Bistrot des Faubourgs: 55, rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 Paris. Métro: Gare de l’Est. Tel: 01 42 05 19 05. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Friday and Saturday for dinner. Fixed-price lunch menu: €14. A la carte: around €30 (not including wine).

© 2007 Paris Update

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