Photo of the Week

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Bicycles in a Parisian courtyard. © Paris Update

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Paris Update What’s On

Links to events happening this week in Paris.

Stick up for science
> The Paris March for Science begins at 1pm at the Jardin des Plantes (Place Valhubert), April 22.

Silent films from Switzerland?
> They’re rare, but they do exist and can be seen at the Fondation Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé, Paris, April 20-May 2.

Voices from the North
> The Pølar Festival celebrates Northern European culture with films, concerts, talks and more. Various locations, Paris, April 19-29.

Photo walk
> Eight Paris galleries hold special photography shows and events for Parcours Fotofever. Various locations, Paris, through May 1.

Photo shows galore
> Le Mois de la Photo has been moved from autumn to spring, with 96 exhibitions taking place all over the greater Paris area. See Web site for locations and dates.

Art videos
> The theme of this year’s Videobox Festival is “noise and movement.” Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 27-29.

Take home a winemaker
> Winemakers from Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux come to Paris to offer tastings of their products in wine bars and private homes for the event J’Irai Déguster chez Vous. Various venues, Paris, April 20-22.

French film with English subtitles
> Lost in Frenchlation shows Nicolas Bedos’s Monsieur & Madame Adelman preceded by a themed cocktail party (€4.50). Studio 28, Paris, April 21.

Polaroid pix
> The “Expolaroid” exhibition features Polaroid images by nine artists. La Maison des Ensembles, Paris, through April 25.

Binge-watching
> Festival Séries Mania shows TV series from around the world and holds debates, conferences and special guests like Julianna Margulies of “The Good Wife,” all for free. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 23.

Travel yarns
> Travel fanatics get together at the Paris Travelers Festival to swap tales of their adventures. FIAP, Paris, April 22-23.

Street art indoors

ParisUpdate-UrbanArtFair-Felipe-Pantone-2
The gallery Art in the Game will be showing works by Felipe Pantone at the Urban Art Fair.> Some 30 galleries show street art at the Urban Art Fair. Carreau du Temple, Paris, April 20-23.

Virtual reality
> Drop in on Saturday or Sunday from 2pm to 8pm for a free virtual trip at the VR Express festival. Forum des Images, Paris, through June 30.

Dance in historic sites
> Monuments en Mouvement offers free dance performances in national monuments like the Pantheon in Paris, the Abbaye de Cluny and châteaux. Various locations, through Oct. 21.

African culture festival
> The 100% Afriques festival showcases dance, theater, music, fashion, design, art, food and more from all over the continent. La Villette, Paris, through May 28.

Before and after ecological disaster
> The Chic Planète festival presents two types of films, those celebrating the bounty of the earth and science-fiction views of what will happen after an ecopalypse. Forum des Images, Paris, through April 13.

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Restaurants - Contemporary

 

Nomos

The Benefits of
Solo Dining

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The bright, modern dining room at Nomos.

I rarely eat alone in restaurants, but after my experience at Nomos the other day, I think I will do it more often. Without the pleasant distraction of conversation, it’s easier to concentrate on and savor the flavors and textures of the food, to my great joy in this case. And you don't have to share a dish you love with your friends...

I had lunch there on a quiet day during the French school holidays. With so few customers in the large dining room, it was even possible to chat a little with tattooed 20-something chef Guillaume Sanchez as he calmly worked in his big open kitchen while keeping a sharp eye on customers to be sure they were lacking nothing.

Lunch is a three-course surprise menu for €35, not so cheap, but well worth it.

The first course turned a humble onion into a noble dish. Slow-roasted, with some of its skin

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transformed into edible chips, it had a rich sauce with a touch of mint and was topped with a curious white powder that turned out to made of white truffles.

I have noticed that cooked onions have been appearing often on menus in Paris restaurants lately, and it’s a trend I fully approve of. This dish was something to revel in, especially when all the ingredients were tasted together, to subtle and unusual effect.

The same was true of the main course, milk-fed lamb cooked in a brioche that was somehow leafed with seaweed. Wow! The succulent

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little cubes of lamb in a rich gravy with a hint of Sicilian lemon for the perfect counterpoint were encased in the crispy brioche, which did not have a hint of sogginess.

I don’t know how he did it, but he later told me that the idea came from his grandmother, who was in the habit of throwing all kinds of ingredients into a brioche and cooking it up. It was served with a celeriac and Jerusalem artichoke purée and a perfectly cooked small potato.

The original dessert consisted of a light and

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refreshing cream and ice cream flavored with herbs and topped with razor-thin, intensely flavored dehydrated apple slices.

This was pretty much a perfect meal for me, complemented by a glass of fruity 2015 Chiroubles from Damien Coquelet, which did marvelous things with both the onion and the lamb. I have to go back to try the more complex evening tasting menu, with six courses for €65. I just hope the high prices won’t keep customers away.

Heidi Ellison

Nomos: 15, rue André del Sarte, 75018 Paris. Métro: Château Rouge. Tel.: 01 42 57 29 27. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Tasting menus: €35 (lunch, three courses), €45 (lunch, five courses), €65 (dinner, six courses). nomosrestaurant.com

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© 2017 Paris Update

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